Archive for the ‘Hungary’ Category

An evening with a few strangers who may or may not be related to me

Tuesday, October 9th, 2007

Porva Hungary A few years ago, I was at Brigid’s in the Art Museum area when I noticed that half of my beers had been comped by the bartender. I didn’t question or think too much about it until the next time I went back and was greeted with, “Hey, you’re not Carl’s brother!” Apparently I looked a lot like this guy Carl who was a regular at the bar, so the staff had sent over a few free brews figuring I must be his brother. Years have gone by since, but still whenever I go to Brigid’s, the bartender greats me with a wink as Carl’s brother. These are my personal “Norm entering Cheers”-esque moments where sometimes I want to go where everybody knows my (albeit fake) name.

Fast forward to the present. Christine and I walk into a bar in this little town in Hungary called Porva fully expecting everybody to know our (Gartner) name. After all, there’s only something like 600 residents in this town and over the years a few dozen of them were named Gartner. A friend of my grandmother’s had once told me that my Dad’s family immigrated to the US from Porva in the early 1900s and that all of the men in the town looked just like me. (I know, I know. Hard to imagine such a good looking town) I had also tracked down information that there were still some Gartners living there, but whether they were related to me or not was a mystery since Gartner is a pretty common name in the area.

No need to worry about all that. We had a plan. We would walk in to the town bar, the music would stop and we’d all do a double take as everyone would think they were looking into a mirror (everyone except Christine that is). There would be no need to explain. This time I wasn’t going to be Carl’s fake brother, this time I was going to be Carl and eveyone would know my (real) name.

…What really happened.

Helpful local in Porva Ok so this guy looks nothing like me… and he was the best looking guy in the bar! I guess things have changed a bit in the last 100 years. Or maybe they haven’t changed at all and that mean little old lady was trying to tell me something. Regardless, it soon became obvious that our task at hand was going to be a bit more difficult. Our new friend didn’t speak English. In fact nbody spoke English. We had drawn a family tree anticipating this and after a little pointing at the chart and then at me, he seemed to understand and acknowledged that he knew the Gartners. He bought us a shot and gave us directions.

Long lost relatives?When we got to the house the Gartners were outside. Now imagine what you would do if a complete stranger showed up at your doorstep and you couldn’t understand a word they said except for them repeating your last name and pointing back and forth at you and them. Well you’d invite them in for dinner wouldn’t you! Luckily we had our trusty family tree and a few pictures and even more lucky, they had a 17 year old daughter who spoke some English. Before we knew it they had gone and got the grandmother from next door, pulled out a bunch of lists of their own geneological research and started comparing notes with me. Although not on their list, the grandmother confirmed my version of the family tree and the fact that her husband’s father had a brother named Joseph who left for the US. That Joseph was my grandfather. So for those of you keeping score at home these are my 3rd and 4th cousins! It was actually kind of exciting and I know they were glad to see us because they wouldn’t let us leave! They said it was like a dream that we were there. Considering they were also researching the family name I can see that it was kind of like Google showing up on your front door and hitting the “I feel lucky” button. Now none of this can really be proven. All of the confirmation came from an 88 year old woman who didn’t speak English, translating through 17 year old girl who spoke just a little English. Either way, we had a nice evening with a nice Hungarian family.

food and drink encounters…

Sunday, October 7th, 2007

I figured since there aren’t many photos of Vienna or Budapest, maybe I could just write a few things about the food we’ve had in the last week…

IMG_3339Fried sole with potatoes and chard from Lake Bled, Slovenia.  The presentation is remarkable.  I’ve only seen this done once before.  In Japan, the bones of the fish are served standing up with a long toothpick along side its sashimi.  The presentation is odd, but even more so when you realize the body continues to “beat” so you know it’s very fresh. 

The sole in this case was well cooked, and tasty.  The potatoes and chard were a bit beat up and dry, though.

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IMG_3340Portion sizes in Slovenia are pretty big, along with the layering of different meat and some sort of gravy.  This is beef with a layer of ham, and a bunch of gravy, served with fries.   This was Mike’s meal, and he said it was good.  I have my doubts, though.

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IMG_3342This delicious flaky pastry is called burek.  It doesn’t look too appetizing, but believe me, it is good!  It’s made with phyllo dough, and can be filled with ground beef, spinach, cheese, apple, etc.  It’s greasy and savory (or sweet)– my kind of treat.

It is said to be a Slovenian specialty, but we found it again in Austria.  But Google says it’s Turkish.

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IMG_3346This is kremma snezna rezina or cream cake.  Sorry for the photo, we weren’t hungry at the time, so we took it to go.  It is made of phyllo dough on the top and bottom with layers of vanilla custard and fresh whipped cream.  This is a Bled, Slovenia specialty, and, oh, is it special!  so delicious.

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This food vendor sells pita, burek, and my new favorite, gozleme.  The only difference with the burek and gozleme is the dough.  The gozleme can be stuffed with the same kind of fillings as the burek, but the dough is more like roti or a heavy crepe, not made from phyllo dough. 

I got the spicy meat gozleme, and it was yummy.

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IMG_3370 I always thought goulash was noodle soup with beef.  Apparently in Hungary, it’s a little different.  Or maybe it was the fact we were at a restaurant called “El Greco” in Budapest.  This was a beef broth soup with chunks of beef, potatoes, carrots, and paprika.  They also served hot sauce on the side, kind of like the Vietnamese sriracha sauce.  Turns out this was one of the best soups I’ve had, and the Greek food we were served was really bad.

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In search of Mike’s relatives in Porva, Hungary we decided the best place to start looking was to go to where people might gather– the local bar.  We figured we could speak with people, see if they know the Gartners, and get know Porva.  Finding the bar was easy, as there is only one main road, and one bar, and one restaurant, and one grocery store…

This nice barfly(with very few teeth) invited us to sit down next to him.  We discussed the Gartners’ or rather pointed to the piece of paper with the family tree drawn out, and he said he knew them.  Of course he did, the town only has 600 residents!  He spoke to us in German and Hungarian, we gestured back nodding in agreement of whatever he was saying.  Then he bought us a shot of Betyar Vegyes.  I’m not sure what it was but it tasted like vodka flavored with cassis.  Then of course, not to be rude we had to buy him one before departing.  It is said that Hungarians like to do shots for just about any reason, and this guy was no exception to the rule. 

IMG_3470This was Mike’s last dinner in Hungary.  Again–what is it with the layering of meat?  It was beef with another layer of meat with mushroom gravy and 13 tater tots.  Not my kind of thing, but Mike liked it okay.

The food (and drink) overall has been pretty good with a few exceptions here and there.