language

August 19th, 2007

The language hasn’t really been an issue so far. In Spain you need to know that “vale” means is okay, and “si, si, si” means yes, yes, yes. Both of which are the most commonly used words in Spain. In addition, my Spanish vocabulary is fairly strong; it’s just stringing the words together to form a sentence that is the problem. But for the most part when speaking with someone, I can work out what is being said.

In France, more people seem to speak English than in Spain, so the only thing NOT to say is, ” qu’est-ce que c’est?” in French (which means, what is that?), or you’re likely to get an earful back in French, none of which you understand.

And in Morocco, it was odd, because their national language is Arabic and French, but the word I heard most while I was in Morocco was “ko-nee-chi-wa” which is hello in Japanese??

You know what they call a Quarter Pounder in France?

August 18th, 2007

mmm... so international

Chateau D’If – Doh!

August 18th, 2007

view of chateau d'if in Marseille Windy Marseille

In what seems to be becoming a theme, today we were shut out of yet another fortress. This time it was Chateau D’If in Marseille, France, the setting for the “Count of Monte Cristo.” Apparently it was too windy to sail there. Not sure I agree with them.

tentative schedule

August 17th, 2007

Some of you have been asking for our travel schedule. I can only hope that means you plan to meet up with us somewhere along the way…

FIB concert Aug 16-24 South of France
Aug 24-29 Porto, Lisbon, Faro
Aug 29- Sept 7. Corsica, Sardinia, and Sicily
Sept 7-14 Croatia
Sept 14-17 Slovenia
Sept 17-21 Budapest
Sept 22- Oct 6 Greece or Turkey
Oct 6-20 Greece or Turkey

By November we hope to be out of Europe and onto Egypt, Dubai, and other countries in Africa.

Morocco

August 17th, 2007

medina at dark Marrakech is overwhelming to the senses– between the stifling heat, the intense smell of diesel fuel and spices like tumeric & cumin, and the primitive sounds of drums coming from the medina, it can seem intimidating. Just as in the movies, there are snake charmers and acrobats in the square. It’s not just the sights and the sounds that make Marrakech feel so different, but the fact that it is a Muslim country. As an observer of the Islamic faith, the dress code is very conservative. Men and women should wear loose fitting clothing and reveal very little skin. So, not only is it 95 degrees, which by Moroccan standards is considered pleasant (apparently the week before the weather was 110 degrees), but most women are fully covered. I’ve been to marrakech once before about 8 years ago, and the feeling of stepping into another world was the same then as it is today.

no part goes to waste, even the sheep's head! This time around though, I was much more adventurous and ate at the outside foodstalls. Right in the Medina full of a hundred or so different food stalls to choose from. We had tagine (12 dirham), eggplant(5), kebabs(25), lentil soup(6), spiced olives(5) and of course, Morocco would not be complete with out its mint tea (1). Eight Dirham equals one dollar. Even though it might seem like a recipe for an upset stomach, we mostly stuck to the things that were either boiled or fried. We also did not try the lamb`s head sandwich and wash it down with the communal cup passed around with unfiltered water.

nice headpiece! While in Marrakech, we walked through the markets and went to the few sites in the city: the Katoubia, Bab Agnou, and the Saadien Tombs. Probably the highlight of the trip was our day trip to the Atlas Mountains. We did a short 4 km trek through several Berber villages, including Imlil.

Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee

August 16th, 2007

ali, one of our guides

Our guide through the Berber Valley’s name was Mohamed. This is his partner, Ali.

A little bit “Times Square in New York”, a little bit “Escape From New York”

August 16th, 2007

#11 – Hasta La Vista….baby

August 11th, 2007

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Our time in Spain has come to an end. Tomorrow we head to Morocco.

Oh, Noooo, I’m so sorry. It’s the MOOPS. The correct answer is, The MOOPS.

August 11th, 2007

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Today we spent the day exploring Granada, a small city at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains and famous for the Alhambra. According to the guidebook, the Alhambra is the best preserved Moorish fortress in the world. It’s located at the top of a extremely steep hill and like most forts, was obviously built to keep people out. Well, hundreds of years later, I’m unhappy to say it’s still doing a fine job of it. After a long hot hike up to the top, we were informed that in order to protect the monument, there were “No Moor” tickets left for today. (There’s no way of knowing for sure since it was a recorded anouncement, but I like to think they would spell it that way, making all the workers chuckle amongst themselves saying how that joke never gets old.) It seems that the very same fortress that held thousands of enemies at bay for centuries, supported an entire army of men and instilled fear in the hearts of villagers below, can only withstand the onslaught of 2000 camera wielding tourists a day. Dejected, we hiked back down and enjoyed the views from below.

Nerja Nightlife

August 10th, 2007

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This was quite an exciting end to our week in Nerja. First there were the flaming chorizo dogs at a place called the “Barrel Bar” where the power had gone out and the only lights in the place were the eerie illuminated porcelain pigs slowly roasting everyone’s pork on a stick.

This was followed by Tutti Frutti Plaza, which loosely translated into English means “Old City on a Friday Night”

All this was topped off by an excellent Flamenco performance, which I’m fairly certain featured a member of 38 Special on guitar.

our second visitor!

August 10th, 2007

tracy, as usual... We’ve only been on the road for 4 weeks, but we’ve had our second visitor. On her way to a yoga retreat in Italy, Tracy decided to stop in on us to check out the scene in Nerja, and dance her way through the town! First, there was the all-night dancing at Tutti Fruitti square, then the next night Tracy went on stage and danced Flemenco!

If the streets are paved with ham, the faucets must run with wine

August 7th, 2007

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Even with the exchange rate, thats still close to a dollar a bottle!

Nerja

August 6th, 2007

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On Saturday we left Barcelona and headed south to a little beach town called Nerja. It’s lovely.

The only 10 Spanish Words/Phrases I know, which have done me absolutely no good in trying to communicate with actual Spanish speaking people

August 6th, 2007
  1. Feliz Navidad
  2. Donde esta la biblioteca?
  3. El Pussy Gato! Andale, Andale! Arriba, Arriba!
  4. Rico Suave
  5. Oye Como Va
  6. Hello, my name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father … prepare to die
  7. Ricky Martin
  8. Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria
  9. Nachos Supreme, a Gordita Crunch and a large Sprite please
  10. Columbus Boulevard (Even they still call it Deleware Avenue)

Top Picks in Barcelona

August 5th, 2007

1.La Sagrada Familia

la sagrada familiala sagrada familiala sagrada familia

2. Art by Joan Miro

sculpture by joan mirojoan miro tapestry

3. La Boqueria
La Boqueria MarketLa Boqueria MarketLa Boqueria Market

La Boqueria MarketLa Boqueria MarketLa Boqueria Market

***the 80/20 just missed the cut…I wish I had a photo of the many mullets we saw in Barcelona.

the little things…

July 30th, 2007

tapas bar Today I can barely wait until we can go eat tapas. Yesterday Hedda and I stumbled across my best tapas experience, yet. Those tasty little bites called tapas or pinchos are served all day, even though traditionally they are supposed to be enjoyed between 7-9PM. The dishes are pre-made and sit along the bar and are meant to be a snack before dinner.

tapas, pinchos, little bites tapas bar tapas in Madrid

So far among my favorite tapas is the cured ham, especially if it is Iberico ham. I have also enjoyed the meatballs with a zesty tomato sauce, and salted cod with onions, green and red peppers in vinegar & olive oil. Of course the fried potatoes are also good, especially when served with garlic mayonaise.

Just so long as they promise to be tasty, I will go to another tapas bar tonight.

where’s hedda now?

July 29th, 2007

gardens in montjuic So, we have our first visitor…Hedda, who has tracked us down again. Back in December, she and her husband Michael showed up in Krabi, Thailand and followed us to Bangkok to take a cooking class. Now, she’s here in Barcelona. We’ve shared tapas with her, many bottles of wine and cheese, gone to La Sagrada Familia, Fundacio Joan Miro, and there’s even more to do in the next few days with her. She’s our first visitor and we’re excited to have her here to share in our travels. I wonder where we’ll meet up with next!
And, the question also remains which one of you will we see next??

let’s do the time warp…

July 26th, 2007

time warpFinally catching up on posting on the blog. Rather than have then out of order, I back-dated them. Be sure to scroll down to see what you missed!

top chefs

July 26th, 2007

el raco can de fabes The month of July has been filled with amazing foods, not only because we are in Spain experiencing different foods but that we have had the chance of a lifetime– twice this month. Earlier this month Mike and I went to Per Se restaurant in NYC. We indulged in an amazing 9 course tasting menu by Chef Thomas Keller. We had a 10pm reservation, and didn’t finish eating until after 1am. We also had the opportunity to go to Sant Celoni to Santi Santamaria’s (pictured above on the right) restaurant El Raco Can de Fabes, to try the 12 course tasting menu. Both of these restaurants are rated as one of the top restaurants in the world.

If you’ve ever ordered a tasting menu, you know that you will be completely stuffed by the time all of the courses are served. The trick to a tasting menu is to pace yourself, only finishing the plates that are completely amazing, and tasting a few bites of those courses that are good, but do not blow you away. Otherwise, by the last course you will feel uncomfortably full. Unfortunately willpower and eating for me do not go hand in hand…it doesn’t have to be amazing for me to finish my plate. So what happens when I order a 9 course tasting menu or 12 course tasting menu, for that matter??

My top picks from Per Se; Berkshire pork belly, beets and leeks butter poached lobster, peach melba foie gras, and the brownie desert. My top picks from Can Fabes; langostino grilled in herbs, fresh cheese with anchovies, the cheese selection was delicious, and the melon and strawberry sorbet.

I thoroughly enjoyed myself at both of these restaurants, and feel very fortunate I was able to try the best that the culinary world has to offer. If given another chance to go back, I’ll take it. In the future though, I might have to order a la carte, rather than the tasting menu so I can walk out of the restaurant, and not be rolled out!

Sant celoni

July 25th, 2007

sant celoni square
Stopping for the day in this sleepy little town who’s claim to fame is “el raco can de fabes” which we’re hoping is Spanish for “next best thing to ‘el bulli’, the #1 restaurant in the world located right here in Spain and which is only open a few months of the year and impossible to get into. ” We’re ready for some good eats tonight. I’m suspecting we will become familiar with many parts of the pig that we never knew existed before.